Tuesday, January 22, 2013

Men's Milan F/W 13.14


This year's Milan Menswear shows were extremely difficult to narrow down to a top 5. After looking through all the collections I settled on a top 6 and had to add my other forerunners as honorable mentions.


Fendi
Silvia Venturini Fendi's Collection for AW 2013-2014 featured heavy outerwear through the use of furs, knits, felts and leather evoking a frigid, cold environment. The looks were contrasted with weathered suits and topcoats. This year Fendi stuck to a darker, outdoor color scheme mixed with yellows and neutral lighter colors.


Belstaff
Always a delight and quickly becoming a favorite designer of mine. Martin Cooper's collections for Belstaff continues to redefine their motorcycle heritage. This AW 13-14 collection featured leather trousers with ridged detailing and classic motorcycle boots. Belstaff also has updated their traditional jackets in a variety in lengths in colors.


Canali
Canali's influence for the AW 13-14 collection is quickly obvious as the models parade down the runway. With the specific tailoring and jewel tones one can see Russia is the main inspiration for Elisabetta Canali. The models are wearing furs, velvet and wool in brick, purple and deep blues. Canali also incorporates some military inspired coats reminiscent of a czar's attire. 



Neil Barrett
My favorite element of Neil Barrett's collection is his use of leather. Barrett adds the leather to sweatshirts in a blocking patter and under coats to resemble armour or a breastplate. Neil Barrett's color palette is neutral with his use of camel, white, black and navy. Barrett's signature trousers and shoes can also be seen. 



Kenzo 
Opening ceremony's Humberto Leon and Carol Lim first collection for Kenzo use their travel's and fantastical elements as their inspiration. Leon and Lim use the Kenzo theme of the jungle and incorporate it with the sky as can be seen in the cloud print. The pair also add romantic mythical elements mixed with street wear to create a powerful image.  



Les Hommes
Tom Notte and Bart Vandebosch's collection for Les Hommes look to Belin in the 30s for inspiration. The duo use dark velvets to provide a dark, elegance and combine it with military sensibilities as seen in the boots and double breasted waistcoats. Notte and Vanderbosch play with proportions in the widened trousers and the tailored coats. One of the standouts of their collection is their capes and geometric graphics.  


Notable mentions: Dirk Bikkebergs Sport, Prada, Jil Sander, Burberry Prorsum, Z Zenga, & Gucci.  

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